Valentinees day: The Moulin Rouge and onto my 18th century chateau!

Valentines day was our last day in Paris.  After a hasty breakfast and I had given CBC his card, we went for a last wander around Monmartre and to CBC's delight, we found Le Moulin Gallette which looked an amazing restaurant, such a pity we weren't staying. 

Packing up our things, trying to cobble together our terrible French (I have a good accent but can't remember any useful vocab!  I can give lots of Classroom instructions though!) to check out, we bid goodbye to Timhotel, which had a great location if you ever want to stay. (that's me in all the clothes!)

Since the car was parked right down hills, we dragged our suitcases down the cobbled paths, sadly noticing we found an amazing shopping street which was full of wonderful-looking food places- it seemed very Marylebone high street.

The Moulin Rouge was on our way so we stopped for photos though a stonking-great lorry was parked outside it!

 As we collected the car to continue our journey onto Reims, CBC voiced his determination to fulfill an ambition to drive around the Arc de Triomphe.  This road is renowned as the most CRAZY one in France.  This roundabout has 8 lanes (except WHERE are the lanes?!) and you have to giveaway to things coming on.  It's the only one like it in France, totally loopy!

We had borrowed a friend's Satnav and had set a course for Reims but it was hilarious because it seemed to be frantically trying to get us to avoid the Arc as it kept replotting our path to avoid it right up until the last few metres

 Tense with nerves, we avoided buses as we approached...

 And then into the throng!  It was totally Wacky racers meets the bumper-cards. Vehicles weaving erractically in all directions at a high speed.  People coming on from all roads, barging their way in!  I admit my heart was pounding...

As we drove, we took in the last sites to be seen as we began the long drive to Reims, city of the Kings.

 At long last, we arrived at our B&B,an amazing 18th-century restored Chateau that CBC had found.  I have to say, he is an absolute genius at finding wonderful, unique, special places to stay. An amazing place to spend Valentines day at!  This was no exception. Domaine de Lattaignant or Chateau Hermonville was breathtaking!  I can imagine it is a dream in the summer at the height of the champagne season!  As you may realise, it is deep in champagne country!

However, I shall save my Chateau photos for their own special post!  Sufficed to say, that Sophie and Alain, our hosts, were delightful.

We headed off into the city to catch some sites before hopefully finding a lovely brasserie for a Valentines dinner.

Our first stop was the amazing cathedral, the place where the kings of France were crowned from the time of Clovis.  It is wonderfully ornate, covered in amazing masonry, exquisite, intricate stained glass windows and a labyrinth!

 The outside was stunning.

 Before venturing inside, we decided to visit the Palace and its treasures first

 Inside, we scrutinized some gigantic stone friezes and statues that had fallen off the cathedral, or been replaced after erosion.  They were at least double my height and we wondered how on EARTH they manage to get them up high on the walls before the invention on cranes!

 The Virgin Mary was about 3 times my height!

 The banquetting hall was spacious and CBC and I imagined having a quadrille there!

 CBC disappeared off and I was left delighting at the royal treasures.

 I found this amazing chapel.  I should point out that there were no others and CBC had gone back to the main entrance.  It was like  small part of the cathedral itself and it was filled with a sense of peace and hushed silence.  I felt compelled to sing and did!   Luckily, I don't think I was overheard!

 More coronation garb

 This ornate costume was worn by the Dauphin.

 And of course no palace would be fit without a crown.

 Down in the crypt- more spacious chambers.  Apparently people can hire this space out!

 After a trip to the gift shop where I bought a wind-up snail and ladybird, we headed back to the cathedral.
It was like the Artic in there though the beauty made up for it.
A whole host of wonderful stained glass windows.  There were at least 3 rose windows like this one.  It's such a shame I couldn't capture the wonderful light effect in this photo.

 These seemed very contemporary

 And lurid.

And delicate.   The peace of this place of sanctuary was wonderful.  It was bombed in WW2 but it remains steadfast, restored to glory.

 Reims has a famous labyrinth which I am still somewhat confused about.  Whether it is just a pattern on the floor or an actual maze deep below the cathedral (our host seemed to think that) but I am disappointed not to have seen it.

After a stop for tea and something chocolately in a patisserie, we headed off to a recommended brasserie which catastrophically was fully booked due to the day.  Realising this might be a portent of doom, we successively tried places which said they were full, others that were far too expensive (and probably were full), we frantically drove in the car trying to find any places listed in the tourist guide.  After half an hour or so, we had been walking in the cold, both miserable we finally ended up in a Creperie, jammed-packed, but the waitress saw my tear-stained face (I am a terrible cry-baby) and made room for us.  We had the 'Valentines deal' which was a galette with caramellised onions, fig jam, foue gras (I was a little uncomfortable eating this for obvious reasons but it was nice.), a glass of champagne (I don't really drink but when in Reims...) and a chocolate pancake with raspberries, the evening ended better though I being a little insecure thought CBC was in a mood with me for getting upset and was in that state of feeling that I wish I didn't so obviously let my feelings show and feeling embarassed about crying, so we were a little quiet!  He was just feeling guilty though, he said. Misunderstandings eh!

Back at Hermonville, very late, we enjoyed a chat with Sophie who told us they have a secret passage of sorts!!!

Here's just a taste of Chateau Hermonville...

More anon...

http://www.domaine-de-lattaignant.com/