I capture the castle

Continuing from my last post, our holiday continued in Reims, City of the Kings.  We stayed in an amazing restored chateau a couple of miles outside, in the midst of Champagne country called Chateau Hermonville.  The house is an amazing B&B run by Sophie and Alain. They restored it to full glory after it had been left in disrepair.  It has an interesting history.  It was occupied during both WW1 and WW2 by German troops, so it has some secret tunnels leading from the kitchen to some outhouses in the grounds to allow for people to escape.  It was wonderfully spacious, peaceful and since they have 4 rooms, it will probably always be a peaceful place to stay in.  Happily for us, it is their lowest seasons so we were the only guests.  The next morning, after Valentines day, we came down to breakfast in the magnificent dining room.   A long table, enough for 10 people, set for just us.

 An imitation gas fire, was the only hint of modernity.

 Breakfast was amazing.  A silver pot of tea, freshly squeezed juice and fruit salad.  Croissants, yoghurt, muffins, pastries, fresh bread, cheese, brioche freshly made.  It was a repast fit for a chateau!

It was so peaceful there at the chateau.  Hermonville seemed a really peaceful, sleepy town- pure tranquillity!

I try to look here like I've really captured the castle!

After Sophie telling us about the grounds (1 acre I believe!), we discovered they grow their own champagne grapes, so they had their own champagne.  They offered us a glass upon arrival but we both plumped for tea.  Would you have?

I loved the Mr Darcy costume upon a bust by the cabinet.  This hauge cabinet was full of crockery etc.  Puts my messy kitchen cabinet to shame!  CBC and I wished we had our Regency outfits to take the perfect photo within a suitable setting (yep, I have my own Mr Darcy.  We had some regency dance lessons a while back!)

The living room was amazing, full of small details, perfect for the 18th century era.  How amazing to grow up here like Sophie's children did!

The best feature for CBC and I was the authentic Pleyel piano (albeit not very well tuned!).  After we'd had breakfast, we sat at the piano and played through some Mozart piano duets.  They were ones he wrote for him and his sister Nannerl, they're mostly quite playable and delightfully fun so we didn't sound TOO dire when we discovered Sophie was listening! (nor did we sound good, so it was a little embarassing!).  The perfect setting. We wished we were staying another day or two, as it was wonderful.  I'd have loved to have  gone on some walks in the area.

There were more costumes and details to admire.

I quite like this shot- it makes me think of Van Eyck's The Alfini Marriage  with my reflection in the mirror as proof that I was a witness to the shot!

When we first arrived, it was soooo exciting going up the stairs, wondering which room we'd be given!

We thought that these doors lead to the other wing of the house, but they turned out to be a large cupboard!  Our room was second on the right!

Our room had a lovely little dressing room to the side with huge cupboards and a pretty desk!

Simple, but beautiful fittings

The room was a lovely size, after our Paris hotel which was tiny.  The bathroom (not pictured) was huge!

These photos come from the website.  I strongly recommend staying here.  It was fairly expensive, but really special for a treat!  We were so lucky to stay here as they are fully booked all through the summer season (champagne enthusiasts!).  It would be a wonderful retreat say for a honeymoon or something similar if you wanted an excuse?!

The day continued with a car tour of champagne country and a visit to Moet et Chandon's cellars!  More anon...

Have I persuaded you.  Come, stay at my castle!

The awe and wonder of Durham!

Possibly one of the most special experiences of my Chrismas holiday was visiting Durham for the first time ever.  This famous University city has the most amazing cathedral and when J, (CBC's mum) found out I'd never seen it, she promised we should pay a visit at Christmas, so on the 22nd of December, it was our plan to attend the carol service there.

In the morning, we went for lunch at Brockbushes garden centre (scene of the famous maize maze post from the summer).  We spent rather a long time there, so CBC and I went outside to play with a tractor.  Well CBC did- I was the paparazzi!

One of my favourite (a little geeky I know) car pastimes is cloud-gazing.   I love identifying familiar objects and characters in clouds.  And since reading the Cloud collector's handbook, looking for unusual ones!

This fleet of airship like clouds were my companion all the way along the rollercoaster that is the A68

They appeared to have babies after a while!
Spookily, anticipating parking issues in Durham, we found somewhere instantly and sojourned up to the cathedral.  We crossed the river, going past the controversially concrete-looking Durham university Student Union and up steep cobbled streets..

... to catch our first view of the cathedral.   To be honest, it doesn't look out of the ordinary from any other cathedral on the outside.  But on the inside it is breath-taking.  I almost cried (I confess I did she a tear or two, but tried to hide as I did it)  I was so overwhelmed by the feeling of beauty, of it being a sacred place of the standing on holy ground.   I have sung in quite a few cathedrals because of a choir I used to sing with- we used to cover for cathedral choirs when they were away sometimes and so got to see parts of the cathedral that the general public don't get to, but by far, this is the one I have been most awed and affected by. 

Unfortunately you are not allowed to take photos inside but please please please go and look at the cathedral website, where you can see some.  You will not get the feeling I got of being in that holy place but it is beautiful!  We saw the Marks and Spencer stained glass window (paid for by M&S I believe) and were treated to seeing and hearing the choir rehearsing for the service. 
 We heard different choir boys being tried out for the 1st verse solo for 'Once in royal David's city'!

J, who went to University in Durham, shared some of her knowledge and reminiscences with us.  I loved seeing where she'd lived.  Look at these lovely Georgian looking buildings.

Steep cobbled streets made me feel sorry for the limping old man I saw. 

Durham castle, which we didn't get to see inside.

More views of the cathedral which is Norman- so it is at least 800 years old...

and more...

Here's the square.  And to our left, Durham university music department building!

The sanctuary knocker. If anyone in Norman times (I'm a little hazy on the dates/era) who was wanted by the law, they could seek sanctuary in this cathedral and they could not be touched by the authorities and would be given free passage to the nearest port. If they even just managed to reach the sanctuary knocker and touch it, they would be safe.

 As it got dark, we went and ate cake!  Bless J, she saved us seats whilst we went to do some Christmas shopping.   Looking around, I discovered that this is the resting place of the venerable Bede- well known monk, and considered one of the Great historians.  He strongly believed in unbiased truth in history. 

The quadrangle...

We managed to find one or two items including copious walking socks!
That's me. In a hat. It felt so festive and romantic being in that paved, old-stoned square! Leaving J, CBC's Mum to guard our bags and save places, we went to hastily buy some last minute Christmas presents (and buy some sneaky chips!) I loved the winding streets!

The carol service was magical.  It was so wonderful to be there.  I loved the fact that the choir had boys and girls mixed up.  There's usually just a boys choir and the girls sing for other services.  The singing was wonderful, and I loved the readings and the message of the sermon.

 
As we departed the cathedral at night (9pm), I was so glad we had made the journey.  It was a cheerful, yet hungry journey back to Haltwhistle.  We had great fun playing, "Christmas Carol 1 note at a time), singing Christmas carols 1 note each going round in a circle.  You can imagine how Ding dong merrily on high sounded!   We managed to stave our hunger with a snickers bar that WOMOTM thoughtfully gave me in the morning and when we had returned home, we were most appreciative of the salmon dinner that WOMOTM and Miss Penguin had cooked for us!

Have you ever visited Durham.  Can you try and articulate the beauty and awe of Durham cathedral? 
Have I persuaded you to visit if you haven't?

Cycling Celeste- The Famous Five go cycling in Cambridge- or not?

I've not cycled as much I wanted to this summer. For various reasons I only went out cycling in the holidays around 5 times. The most epic of expeditions was the day we cycled the 53 miles or so from Brentwood, Essex to Jesus Green in Cambridge. This was supposed to be five of us (hence the blog title), a sort of swan song (or swan cycle) for CBC's flatmate who was moving back to S.A. However, for various reasons, it ended up just being CBC and I.

The weather was fortuitous- it was sunny but not too boiling. CBC and I set off around 10.45ish. I was dressed in my brand new cycling top. I have ummed and ahhed about whether to buy a proper cycling top for a while- they seemed very expensive and not particularly flattering. However, when the 2 tops I had liked in Cycle Surgery, when buying Celeste, appeared in the cycle surgery sale for less than half price, it seemed rude not to! I am a convert- they keep ou cool and covered! Voila- we have a Peal Izumi striped cycling top (and cheapy padded shorts plus modesty preserver in the form of polka dot shorts over the top! Can't quite bring myself to show my bottom encased in cycling shorts yet- after all- I don't want to share drivers or distract them! (plus usual uniform of spotty Converse and sunglasses) For any cycling lovers but hill haters, this route was particularly good as the majority of it is flat and there are some pretty places to visit plus wide open plains to enjoy!
The first exciting place of interest was the old Ongar tube station (used to be the Terminus of the Central line which now ends at Epping.). I've never seen it before and it was an interesting place to see. You feel immediately like you are back in a bygone era, a feeling the preservers of the site are keen to encourage- hence the pile of suitcases. In addition, there is some crazy household situated just next to the station which has an eccentric collection of memorabilia - weird, creepy-looking mannequins, a TARDIS and a dalek in their garden. AND several really scary looking signs saying something like, Trespassers will be killed or killer dogs on site with the latter dogs lurking in the garden. Any of you vintage fashionistas, landgirls or vixens should consider this as a photoshoot location!

The ride continued for another 10-15 miles or so. Our eventual aim was the Jesus Green lido so we could swim as our reward so I was keen to continue without stoppage, however, a small break was needed to drink some water (have I mentioned I can barely take my hands of the handlebars- gripping on for dear life being an understatement). We stopped at the Doctor's pond in Great Dunmow. This a fascinating place. It is known as this for various reasons suspected and fascinating reasons. Number one, because medicinal leeches were bred in the pond for the doctors' house located opposite. Secondly, maybe because a Doctor Rayner, residing in the town around the eighteenth century looked after and stocked the pond with plenty of fish. Finally, and most interestingly, a certain Lionel Lukin (1742-1834), bred in the town, was famous because of his invention, the non-sinkable lifeboat and the lake was the location for trying out the models (Source of reminders: BBC Essex website.)

As we arrived, 3 avid-looking children were fishing there, one of whom pulled out a bright orange koi-carp which they photographed and put back in. In the time we rested, ate a mule bar and a bit of energy gel (shudder), they caught several other, less vivid successors. They took this photo! As you can see, the sky was gloriously blue and my cheeks were feeling rather hot!

Continuing onwards, having called CBC's other flatmate, who was doing work but needed a lunch break, we rode onto the wonderful village of Thaxted. The location of a lovely music festival, the home of Dick Turpin and containing many wonderfully picturesque buildings), we stopped for lunch at the famous Poppy's tearoom. CBC has long raved on about this to me! Any Essex-types, it's worth a visit. They have an extensive range of teas including their own blend, wonderful cake and sandwiches. The flatmate met us there. I enjoyed a chocolate ice-cream milkshake, wonderful toasted sandwich, some cake and a fragrant tea blend, feeling somewhat bedraggled..

The thought of having to STILL cycle another 23 miles or so seemed utterly daunting but I don't like giving up. I almost almost asked N to give us a lift back in his spacious car but resisted!

I don't deny, the next 23 miles or so were HARD! It was getting late, we weren't sure what time Jesus Green lido would close on a Sunday, and the thought that it might be shut when we got there was too painful to bear. I gritted my teeth and continued, PEDAL, PEDAL, PEDAL.

Saffron Walden, another wonderful place, contained the only real proper hill on our journey (a mere pussy-cat by Northumberland standards) but I had a meltdown moment at the bottom of the hill where I stopped and cried! CBC stopped and hugged me better. I vanquished that hill subsequently. The final hike into Cambridge was lovely and flat and scenic although there were a couple of nasty A-roads that we had to cycle along to reach Cambridge.

I should point out at this point, that CBC told me beforehand, that the journey was 50miles, so when it transpired the bike computer was registering more than 50 miles, I felt somewhat cheated.

As we rode through Cambridge suburbs, a constant ostinato in my mind was, "Gotta get to Jesus Green". Alas, what if it wasn't open?????

At long last, passing along a parkland-flanked road, the way to Jesus Green was nigh. Manic pedalling along the canal path, we were there!

Asking at the office, they said we had ONE HOUR OF SWIM TIME!!!! The time was 6.30pm!!!!!

The sun was well and truly getting lower, so the lido was GLACIAL, but a wonderful reward.

The pool is very long and thin- one of the longest in Europe I believe and it is historic, having been open since 1923. We didn't stay in that long-CBC tends to turn blue if in cold water for too long but it was SUCH a feeling of triumph!!!

Fresh clothes to wear, transported in CBC's pannier, wet hair and a pub-dinner to look forward to.

The ride to the main street to find a pub was painful to say the least- my saddle felt rockhard on my saddle-sore behind as was the mile or so ride back to Cambridge station! We took the All-stations, calls at every blooming station in the known universe train back to Stratford, having just missed the Liverpool street train but eventually we returned home. Only problem was, the time being 11pm, utterly exhausted, having left CBC on a train back to Brentwood, I discovered I had forgotten my front door key...

A tiring but otherwise rewarding ride!